The TV, the power and the wifi
The questions people ask before they will put anything on the wall.
A normal TV is fine for normal shop hours. Any set with a usable web browser works: Android TV, Google TV, webOS, Fire TV, a Chromebox, or a laptop in kiosk mode on the HDMI port. A commercial display earns its higher price in three cases and only three: the screen runs 16 to 24 hours a day, it faces direct sun, or it is mounted in portrait. For a shop open ten hours a day, the TV on the wall is the right hardware.
What makes a good signage TV →
Not for ChannelOS, and here is the trade so you can judge it. We run in the TV's own browser, so there is nothing to buy, mount or licence per screen. A dedicated player box is genuinely more predictable than a five-year-old TV's browser, and it keeps playing through a dead internet line because the media is on local storage. If offline resilience across many sites is your deciding factor, buy the box. That is what it is for.
When a player box earns its cost →
On an OLED panel it can, and static menu boards are the worst case for that panel type: a fixed logo and price column held in the same pixels for hours. LED, LCD and QLED sets are far more forgiving, and are what most shops already own. If OLED is what is on your wall, keep the show moving: more slides, shorter dwell, layouts that shift between them rather than one board parked all day.
Read the label on the back and do the arithmetic yourself, because it varies by four times across panels. Take the rated watts, multiply by hours per day, divide by 1000 for units, and multiply by your tariff. A 100W set for 10 hours is one unit a day. We do not publish a figure for this, because your panel, your brightness setting and your tariff decide it and none of those are ours.
A board already loaded on the screen keeps playing. It runs its slides from a clock it has already synced, so it holds its place and picks the schedule back up when the line returns. What it cannot do is collect an edit you made while the line was down, or start from cold: a screen that loses power and reboots with no internet will sit waiting for the connection. If your line dies for hours at a time, that is the case for a player box with local storage.
No. Most sets have a built-in on and off timer, and using it is the right call: it saves the panel hours and it saves the power. The board comes back to whatever the schedule says when the TV wakes, because the screen is told what to show rather than holding a file. Consumer TVs are typically warranted for about six to eight hours a day of use, which is worth knowing before you leave one running to midnight every day.
On the screen itself, under "How it is mounted". You get four choices rather than a portrait switch: Upright, Turned left, Turned right, and Upside down. Pick the one matching how the set is actually hung, and the picture turns to sit the right way up. The helper line under it is the whole rule: turn this to match the TV, not the content. Portrait or landscape is then worked out for you and shown on the screen's card.
Almost certainly Turned left against Turned right, which are the two that look identical until the board is on the wall. Stand in front of the set and find its top edge, the one that would be up if it were hanging normally. Top edge on the left is Turned left. Top edge on the right is Turned right. Change it on the screen and the TV turns immediately, with nothing to reload and nobody needing to touch the television.
It still plays, with black bars, and the bars go where the mismatch is. A portrait show on an upright 1920x1080 TV plays as a column down the middle using about a third of the panel, with bars at the sides. Turn the same TV a quarter and that show fills it edge to edge. A landscape show on a turned TV gets bars top and bottom. Nothing is cropped and nothing is stretched, so a mismatch costs you screen area rather than the board.